The Funky Drummer

For Fukui's Sake: Two years in rural Japan - the book

2011-09-18T23:05:00.004+09:00

If you enjoyed reading my tales about life as an English teacher on the JET Programme in Japan and would like to read more - you can!

I've finally finished my book: For Fukui's Sake: Two years in rural Japan - which is available for kindle (you can read it on a kindle, iPad, smart phone or PC/Mac) from Amazon now. A paperback version is coming soon.

Here's what the media are saying about it:

‘Witty and highly entertaining; a fascinating insight into the lives of ordinary Japanese people’ – Helen Arnold, 1001 Escapes

‘Jocular and candid; essential reading for backpackers and Japanophiles’ – Ginny Light, former online editor, The Times

‘Really evokes that excitement of ‘discovering’ Japan for the first time. I thoroughly enjoyed it’ – Jan Dodd, Rough Guide To Japan

For more infomation visit: ForFukuisSake.com or buy For Fukui's Sake from Amazon now!

If you do read it - I'd love to hear your thoughts - so please leave a review on Amazon.

domo!

The Funky Drummer Has Left The Blogspot

2006-07-23T20:45:00.000+09:00

Farewell Fukui. It's good bye to dramatic coastal cloud scenes like this one near Tsuruga.

2006-07-23T20:40:00.001+09:00

This is it. In a few minutes I’m going to walk out of my apartment for the final time, get in my car and drive out of Ono, in the knowledge that I may never return.

The last week has been a series of sayonaras. People say that saying goodbye is difficult. I don’t think that's the right word. It’s awkward, sorrowful and painful.

So how do I sum up my two years in Ono, Fukui, Japan? Well, I’ll start by saying it’s been the best two years of my life so far, and I have got a tremendous amount of pleasure and satisfaction from living here, meeting the locals, learning a little lingo, and enjoying a life where everyday is an adventure into the unknown. Life as an English teacher in Ono is sweet.

By bike, snowboard, cross-country ski, kayak, snowshoe, car and foot, I have explored deep into the natural wonders of Fukui, perhaps delving deeper than many of the locals. Sometimes it takes an outsider’s eye to appreciate what locals take for granted

I’ll sign off by saying thanks to everybody who has been reading for the last two years, especially to those who’ve left words of encouragement. This blog was started simply to document my time in Japan for my own enjoyment, but I hope it has been of some entertainment value to you, and maybe amused you or even inspired you to come to Japan, or to go and explore more of the planet.

So what will become of thefunkydrummer you ask? Well, this blog will remain in cyberspace as a record of my time in Nippon and I may occasionally update it with news from home, but really, it’s the end of the line. Thefunkydrummer was all about Japan, and Japan is over now.

When I return to the motherland, I’m hoping to pursue writing in some form or another, and I already have several articles that will be published this year in various magazines, from a gourmet food mag to a cross ountry skiing mag, and of course, I have big plans for www.SnowSphere.com – but more about that soon.

So, thanks Ono, thanks Fukui and thanks Japan for giving me an incredible two years, which have changed my life, given me new direction and allowed me to meet so many beautiful people.

I’ll be back.

The funky drummer has left the blogspot.

Sayonara Sadness

2006-07-20T13:42:00.000+09:00

I cried. In front of the whole, god damn school. It was all going well, I had just delivered my farewell speech in Japanese which went fine, but when the two students who came up to the stage starting crying as they presented me with a parting gift, try as I might, I just couldn’t hold back the tears.

I hope this to be by far the biggest audience to ever witness this rare phenomenon. Back when I was a student, making a teacher cry was one of the highest accolades a class of students could achieve and was seen as a triumph, though this was normally down to despicable and cruel behaviour, rather than the sadness of leaving the people and a place that was held so dear.

I took Shiro the school dog for our final walk today. Though she will never know it, my time spent exploring the rice paddy roads has been one of my most cherished experiences of all at my place of work. Rather than sit at my desk and surf the net during the quiet times (as many ALTs do) I have always jumped at the chance to get out and about, enjoying the simple pleasure of walking a dog.

Through heavy snow, warm tropical rain, thick sticky air and just pleasant spring sun, we have roamed the land, taking in the ever changing scenes and smells of this beautiful locale; the mist shrouded mountains, the bamboo thickets and the native fauna such as wild tortoises, lizards, snakes and eagles.

Many of my posts and pictures on this very blog have been created and captured whilst out with Shiro, as we walk by the paddies, whether covered in crisp white snow, flooded to create miniature inland lakes, or as now – bright and lush, accompanied by the sound of a billion rustling blades, as a breeze ripples the surface of a green rice sea.

I’m about to leave school for the final time.

I’ll miss it.

DVD Giveaway: Cutting Contours Snow Film

2006-07-19T13:27:00.000+09:00

My ever expanding project, SnowSphere.com (the travel mag for snow lovers) has teamed up with Sketch Book Films to give you a chance to win a copy of their latest production "Cutting Contours".

Filmed exclusively in Les Arcs, this great snow movie showcases a stunning area of the French Alps and steps behind the scenes of the resort to bring us a bite of life from the locals.

If you're into trees, threes, or avalanche dogs, you'll want to see this movie.

To read the full review and for a chance to win a copy of Cutting Contours, check:www.SnowSphere.com

At F**king Sui

2006-07-12T14:31:00.000+09:00

Hot Hot Heat - this house got so hot it spontaneously combusted. Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-07-12T14:19:00.000+09:00

In my previous post I said I had a “whole lotta love” for Japan, which is true. But one element of my life here that I don’t got a whole lotta love for, is sitting in the staff room, when it’s 32C, and 95% humidity, in my shirt and smart trousers.

My shirt is stuck to my back, my worksheets stick to my arms when I lean on them, and I'm thankfully not even a big sweater. I really feel for the heavyweight perspirators at this time of year...

Right now the weather here is not only hot hot heat, it’s hyper humid, and this is the problem. It’s fine when you’re in a t-shirt, shorts and flip-flops, but the thick, still air offers no hope of a breeze, and it has a terrible effect on the uniformed clad students and teachers alike.

Like a bee keeper’s soporific smoke that calms his swarm, the humid air sends everyone into a docile stupor. No one wants to be sitting in a horrible, hot, humid classroom. Me included. I counted 7 students asleep on their desk in my class yesterday – but did the teacher do or say a thing? Negative.

I feel sorry for the kids – none of the classrooms even have air conditioning, but at least the teachers room is equipped with a unit, though it’s yet to be activated. And that’s what really pisses me off. The fact that a quick flick of a switch would put an end to everyone's pain. Instead of walking around saying “Atsui, Atsui! It’s hot!” all the time, why the f**k won’t they turn just turn on the AC?

Everyone is suffering, motivation to do anything is rock bottom, yet they still insist on the pointless notion of gamaning (enduring) - the unpleasant conditions, when there’s simply no need.

It’s one of the oddities I discovered here, in that often the environment seems to be ignored, in favour of certain rigid rules. The same thing happens in winter – they won’t turn the heating on until a certain date, even if there’s snow on the ground outside and people are wearing hats and gloves indoors – because it states in the school rules that it must not be switched on until [insert random date that bears no connection to the actual weather here].

I’ve got this crazy idea that I think might just be the answer to everybody's suffering – how about when we’re too cold, we turn the heating on, and when we’re too hot, we turn the a.c. on– yes – I know it’s a lot to get your head round, but have a think about it...

I’ve already documented the terribly designed buildings here that seem as if no thought has gone into them. This is the type of conversation I think must take place during the planning stages of any building in Japan.

Japanese Architect 1: “Our country is sub-zero all winter and plus 30C all summer, how shall we design our buildings to cope with our harsh and extreme environment”.

Japanese Architect 2: “This is indeed quite a problem, but do not fear, for I have found a solution. Let us build our houses and schools with no double glazing, no insulation of any kind, and no central heating.”

Japanese Architect 1: “Yes. This truly is the best way to ensure the comfort of our people.”

I love you Japan, but you’ve still got a few problems you need to work through.

The End Of The Funky Drummer is Nigh

2006-07-07T14:46:00.000+09:00

Paddles up; crusing the crystal clear Kuzuryu lake is one of the things I'll miss most. Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-07-07T14:42:00.000+09:00

It is with mixed emotions that I come to write what will be one of the final few posts on thefunkydrummer. In just over two weeks time, my two years in Japan will be over and I’ll be packing up my life and heading home.

Though I’d like to think that one day I’ll return, the truth is, the Japan chapter of my life is about to come to a very abrupt end and I’ll be leaving in the knowledge that I’ll probably never see many of these people and places again. Goodbye cheap apartment, pimp car, cool river, deserted lakes and snowy mountains.

During the last few weeks, I’ve found myself quite up and down in terms of feelings about leaving Japan. Although I’m really looking forward to reconnecting with my family and friends from home, and walking once more on the soil of the motherland, sometimes I feel quite melancholy about the prospect of leaving a place that I gotta whole lotta love for, to the point where my eyes well up if I think about it too hard.

Whilst many JETs have been tearing round the country trying to tick off the final “must see” destinations, I’ve been taking a more local approach, and have just been maximising my time with the people and places that I will dearly miss on my departure.

Ironically, despite the fact that I have never been more far removed from a local population in terms of physical appearance, linguistic ability and cultural awareness, it is here, in a small, rural town, considered a backwater by most Japanese, that I have felt more of a local, than anywhere else in the world I’ve ever lived.

Whether it’s hiking through snow on some deserted peak in the Okuestu mountain range, playing football with the local team, kayaking with Sam or my J-sis on a beautiful clear blue lake, or banging out some drum beats at the local bar, myself, and my fellow Okuestu gaijin (Caitlin and Brandon) have been made to feel very welcome here.

The generosity and open heartedness of the Ono locals has made my two years here very special. A few days ago our ‘man of the mountain’ and local bar owner Yasu, threw a little sayonara party for us – it was perfect – good friends, good food and some music performed by us and our Japanese friends.

Bran Van and I presented Yasu with a little annotated photo album entitled “Yasu’s Adventures with the Gaijin” which documents our back country expeditions together. I think it was the perfect gift to remember us by, and he proudly showed it off, saying it was a “treasure”.

It was good that we had the sayonara party then, and not right before we leave. That way, we can kid ourselves into believing that we will see our friends (Japanese and other foreigners) again, allowing us the liberty of saying “see you again”, rather than the painful, yet inevitable “goodbye”.

The one thing that I do keep reminding myself, is that there are still so many cool places to see and people to meet in the world, and I’m looking forward to exploring more of the planet’s beautiful places.

I’m also looking forward to ditching the teaching. It’s been fun, but I’ve had my fill and I’m really looking forward to pushing other projects – like www.SnowSphere.com, which will soon have a new sister publication -www.DirtSphere.com.

The countdown continues...

2006-07-07T14:33:00.001+09:00

On the road to the Kuzuryu Lake, a ramshakle house advertises a hotel, most likely a product of Japan's ski bubble that burst in the 90's, leaving empty accomodation to fade away.

2006-07-07T14:31:00.000+09:00

Sam paddles in a pool on the Kuzuryu River, overshadowed by a lush forested cliff.

2006-07-07T14:29:00.000+09:00

Finally my J-sis concedes; Lake Kuzuryu is beautiful after all.

2006-07-07T14:27:00.000+09:00

Sam walks the path to enlightenment at a local temple.

Singing in the Rainy Season

2006-06-30T10:02:00.000+09:00

I love rain. Maybe it just reminds me of the motherland...? Picture stolen from the net.

2006-06-30T09:59:00.000+09:00

It’s come late this year, but the rainy season, or tsuyu has arrived. Lasting for about a month, it’s generally a season the Japanese don’t enjoy, but although I dislike the intense humidity that builds up at this time of year, I do have a deep appreciation for the rain.

The earthy smells, the moody grey skies, the feeling of quiet calm a day of rain brings. The sound of big tropical drops splashing down on the roof tops, the cosy feeling of being indoors during a storm, or the delights of walking outside whilst the warm rain batters your umbrella. Rain is one of the pleasures of life, but though I expect many would disagree, is it not better to embrace and enjoy it, rather than detest and avoid it?

I love how the elements can completely alter not only the scenery, but the feelings experienced by a human on any given day. From balmy summer evenings that evoke memories of beer gardens and barbeques, to the raging snow storms that assert nature’s authority over us, the weather shapes our emotions as well as our landscapes, and in an urban age when man moves ever further from the natural world, it reminds us that Earth still has some powers we cannot control.

The Snake Hunter

2006-06-27T16:15:00.000+09:00

Enough room to swing a live snake round your head? I think so. The Snake Hunter at work, Shotoku Junior High School, Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-06-27T16:03:00.000+09:00

Japan’s warm climate is a haven for reptilian life. During my adventures with Shiro the school dog around the rice paddies, I frequently encounter lizards, snakes and have even seen a wild tortoise. In fact, snakes seem to find their way into the school buildings on regular basis and I have personally witnessed four unwelcome visitors in the last three weeks.

I have observed a number of techniques employed to evict snakes from the premises. The use of long handled tongs to grasp the head, or a brush to sweep the snake away are both effective methods of snake removal, but lack the showmanship that is so desired in this day and age.

For a real snake show, all teachers and students know that there is only one man to call when a serpentine intruder is sighted. The snake hunter. Doubling as the science teacher in the off season, he bides his time studying the habits of his quarry, but when a call goes out over the school PA system, like the Thundercats HO! the snake hunter comes a runnin’.

He arrives at the scene, armed with just his highly experienced bare hands, and a plastic bin liner. He then carefully baits the reptile, forcing it to uncoil and extend its body, and allowing him to grasp it by the tail, and put in into the bin bag.

But sometimes the snake, enraged by the situation, will rear up and attempt to bite the hand of its captor. Indeed, a snake held by the very tip of its tail has the muscle power do this, hard though it may be to believe.

However, the snake hunter asserts his authority as king of the jungle with a technique that no serpent can fight. Like an ancient hunter might swing a slingshot, the snake hunter swings the snake round his head, exerting a highly unnatural amount of G-force to the snakes head area which renders the victim temporarily dazed, and thus allows the hunter time to pop it into a bag and remove it from the premises.

I was lucky enough to be allowed to accompany the snake hunter on one of his recent trapping expeditions to capture a serpent found in the school quad, and managed to get these exclusive shots of the man in action.

No snakes were harmed during the capturing of this serpent.

2006-06-27T16:01:00.000+09:00

Just minutes after the call was put out over the school PA system, The Snake Hunter is on the scene and ready for action, hot on the tail of a meter long snake.

2006-06-27T15:56:00.000+09:00

Round round baby right round; the snake hunter employs his trade mark swinging technique that has made him a legend amongst the teachers and students at school.

2006-06-27T15:51:00.000+09:00

The snake hunter don't take no sh*t from reptiles.

2006-06-27T15:47:00.000+09:00

After several revolutions at unnatural G-force, the snake is bundled into a bag. This one however, was particularly "genki" and put up a fight to the bitter end, requiring the Snake Hunter to give it a few more swings around his head, before it finally conceded.

Debate Rages over Baka Inaka T-shirt

2006-06-23T08:40:00.000+09:00

Well, the baka inaka t-shirt has kicked up a storm that I never envisaged happening. Over the last week, debate has raged over the Fukui JET emailing list and karaoke bars of the ken, as to whether the shirt is offensive or not.

It all started when an American who works for the local City Office, showed the design to his superior, a high ranking local government official. The response: “extremely offensive” and “should not be worn inside Fukui prefecture”.

Interestingly, it wasn’t the slogan “baka inaka” (roughly meaning stupid/crazy countryside) that caused offence, it was the depiction of Fukui as a cloud of steam emanating from the cooling towers of a nuclear power plant, (of which Fukui has 14), that caused the negative reaction.

Most of the English teachers in the prefecture have lapped up the design, which is reflected by the fact that there have been over 100 orders for the shirt. However, some of the foreign teachers who have lived here for longer, have slammed the shirt, saying it is offensive to the people that have been our gracious hosts, and would be akin to wearing a t-shirt in West Virginia saying “Stupid Hicksville”.

Creating something that would be offensive to the people of Fukui was never the intention. Indeed, I have had a great two years here, and the people of Fukui are the friendliest, most generous and kind people I have ever had the pleasure of living amongst.

We simply wanted a good souvenir t-shirt of Fukui, and rather than buying a shirt depicting the somewhat drab Echizen Crab (Fukui’s number one famous food export) we sought a design that was a little more humorous.

I have spoken to several Japanese people about the shirt to gauge its offensiveness; there has been a mixed response. My 50 something host mum sees the funny side and indeed wants a shirt, but some people of similar ages said it was a little offensive. It is worth noting though, that the phrase ‘baka inaka’ is written in relatively small print, and in English, so you would have to get a good look to be able to read and understand what it actually said.

We chose to use the phrase, because it was a nice ring to it, (it rhymes!) and because I think many English teachers in Fukui have had their fair share of “crazy countryside” experiences during their time here.

The incident of my American friend Bran Pan Man, who was reported to the Board of Education and brought in for questioning after an elderly Japanese woman sighted him carrying out the unforgivable crime of holding hands with a Japanese girl in public, is one such example. If that ain’t baka inaka, what is?

However, as the shirt may cause offence to some people, we are recommending caution about where and when it is worn.

And finally, if we are going to get into a debate about offensive t-shirts, the Japanese may want to take a closer look at their own designs. Apparently it’s OK to walk around with slogans such as “Fuckin’ Roll Rock”, “Fuck Jesus” or “I fucking hate [insert list of racial minorities here]” splashed across your chest, but a nuclear power plant in the crazy countryside is going too far?

So, is this just a storm in a tea cup and a lack of ability to laugh at themselves, or is it really an insensitive and offensive design?

Your comments please...

The Baka Inaka T-Shirt

2006-06-07T13:54:00.000+09:00

The award winning design; get yours now!

2006-06-07T13:25:00.000+09:00

You're looking at the brand new and completely original design for a T-shirt that will soon be going into production.

Frustrated by the lack of any decent Fukui T-shirts, I decided I would fill a niche and make one myself, so I recruited Caitlin Hansen from JETfuel Magazine cover art fame, and together we came up with this sleek and unique shirt.

For those unfamiliar with Fukui, Japan, or Japanese, let me talk you through the design.

Nuclear Power - Fukui's biggest export to the rest of Japan is atomic energy. I believe there are 14 reactors within the prefecture, (some are even strategically positioned to ruin beautiful landscapes). Apparently, as compensation, (read: danger money) for being Japan's numero uno nuclear power supplier, the Japanese government have promised to build a Bullet Train line to Fukui city. Because of this, we felt we had to make reference to it in the design.

The radioactive cloud you see pouring from the chimney, is not just hot air. This doubles as the outline shape of Fukui prefecture, then triples as the Japanese flag. It just works on so many levels...

The Bold Kanji in the upper left reads Fukui, the small Kanji in the bottom right reads Nippon (Japan), and the “baka inaka” roughly translates as “stupid countryside” as Fukui is largely regarded by the rest of Japan as a rural back water. Of course, we love it here, and that’s why we’re showing our love with this awesome shirt.

Reprezent Fukui in style, and buy your baka inaka shirt today. The shirts come in red, and are priced at the bargain price of just Y2000. These are limited edition shirts and come in all sizes. Only one print run will be made, so get your order in now.

Natural Beauty; beautiful or not?

2006-05-30T14:57:00.000+09:00

My J-sister and I take to the lake but have to agree to disagree, Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-05-30T14:54:00.000+09:00

As the weather warms, the time has once again come to explore the lakes of Ono in my beloved two man kayak. Last week, I took my super cool J-sister, Yuko, up to Manahime Ko, to show her the delights of the Sea Eagle 330.

Despite being an Ono local, she has never made the short 40 minute drive up here, which I find unbelievable considering it’s such a stunning area, but as we paddled through the deep blue waters lined by steep forested mountains, it became apparent that my idea of beauty, and her idea of beauty, were two very different things.

Whilst I proclaimed to area to being very pleasing to the eye, she explained that from a Japanese point of view, it was not considered beautiful. Spooky? Yes. Attractive? No. Her reasons - lack of people and human development – exactly the same reasons that I find it such a lovely area.

This does seem to fit in with the Japanese love for what I deem “man-made nature”, in that it seems an area is only considered beautiful once it has been manipulated and manicured by human hands. Raw, untouched beauty appears to be less appreciated. Only structured, hand planted, man-influenced “beauty spots” seem to make the guide books here.

That would explain why I am the only person that ever goes to this lake. Not that I’m complaining. I still think it’s beautiful, and I get it all to myself, but I do think it’s a shame that a place I consider to be such an amazing spot, is not appreciated at all by the natives.

2006-05-30T14:53:00.000+09:00

Paddlin' the waters of Manahime Ko.

2006-05-30T14:51:00.000+09:00

Pump, pump, pump it up! - Yuko inflates the Sea Eagle.

Meet the Parents

2006-05-26T13:29:00.000+09:00

Ma and Pa light incense, over shadowed by the giant Buddha in the background; Katsuyama, Fukui, Japan.

2006-05-26T13:28:00.000+09:00

During the golden week holiday, my ma and pa made the long journey to Japan, to see what all the fuss was about. Spending a week in Fukui, we visited almost every single place of interest around the area, from the massive Buddhas to beaches, temples to teriyaki joints, and paper making villages to paddling the sea eagle round a small island in Obama bay.

They also had the pleasure of meeting Shiro the school dog, though our surprise visit to the school came at a bad time. Due to a heavy electrical storm the previous night, the school’s water supply had been cut off, meaning the school was in a panic, and students were being bussed to the nearest toilet every hour! Never the less, the teachers still rallied to the cause, and presented my ma and pa with gifts and photos of the school.

After a week in the inaka – they headed off for Hiroshima and Kyoto for some culture and history.

Overall – a great trip – thanks for visiting!

2006-05-26T13:23:00.000+09:00

Pops stares at a wall of buddhas; Katsuyama Daibutsu temple.

2006-05-26T13:20:00.000+09:00

The "students of zen"; Eiheiji temple, Fukui.

2006-05-26T13:17:00.000+09:00

Pops gives a lecture to the kids. I know how they feel.

2006-05-26T13:12:00.000+09:00

The parents enjoy a sunset stroll on a beach near Mihama, Fukui.

The Fukui Fellowship

2006-05-08T09:50:00.000+09:00

Check out the article I wrote for SnowJapan.com. It's an interview with a Japanese Ski and Snowboard posse, and the story of how I came to be in Japan.

Click here to view The Fukui Fellowship.

Cannabis in the Classroom

2006-04-24T12:49:00.000+09:00

Never take advice from a Japanese pencil tin.

2006-04-24T12:42:00.000+09:00

Japan has very strict drug laws. There is no drug classification, no hard and soft. Possession of cannabis carries the same penalties as possession of heroin. One of the things we are constantly warned about at every opportunity is the danger of getting caught with drugs in Japan.

Three weeks ago, an English teacher in Gunma prefecture got caught with some marijuana in his possession. In the UK or America, this would likely result in a verbal warning and a slap on the wrist. Unfortunately for this guy, he has been in jail ever since, waiting for trail.

As far as I can tell, there is little drug education in Japan, and most people have the “All drugs are bad, mmmkay?” propaganda pumped into them from an early age. This is what makes the fashion of cannabis pencil tins amongst my 11-14 year old students all the more amusing.

I doubt they really know what it is they are advocating the use of, with slogans such as “Get arrested on a Marijuana Possession Charge!”, yet I’m grateful for this trend. It always brightens up my day to see an 11 year old girl with “Reggae Monkey, Bogart the joint!” on her pencil tin. Considering the Japan’s strict attitude to cannabis, I think this is akin to an 11 year old student in England having a “Shoot Heroin into your Veins!” or “Smoke a Crack Bong: It’s Cool!” splashed across his stationary.

2006-04-24T10:27:00.000+09:00

The Classroom Cannabis Culture.

2006-04-24T10:23:00.000+09:00

Darn that Reggae Monkey!

Lost Seouls; Korea

2006-04-12T11:15:00.000+09:00

Korean Coca Cola - as seen in Seoul.

2006-04-12T11:07:00.000+09:00

I recently made the short trip from the Land of the Rising Sun to the Land of the Morning Calm to check out Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Despite Korea being Japan’s closest neighbour, with the cheap flight taking just 1.5 hours, surprisingly few of my Japanese colleagues have ever visited. Among the older generation, Korea just doesn’t seem to rank too highly on the list of “must see” destinations of the world, though many younger Japanese do make the journey.

As with all the best trips, my travelling companion The Bran Pan Man and I had made few plans, deciding instead to just go with the flow. However we ran into minor difficulties from the word go. Catching a bus from the airport, somehow we either missed our stop or were on the wrong bus altogether, leaving us a little puzzled when we were the last people left on the bus, having reached the end of the line.

We then jumped in a cab, but the driver didn’t seem to know where our guest house was, so we ended up getting out at a nearby station, which according to our map was a short walk away. However, after asking several people, some of whom made phone calls to the guest house, we ended up on a wild goose chase trying to find the place, being sent back and forth down the same streets.

At this point The Bran Pan Man got a little stressed out. Perhaps because this was the first time he found himself in a situation where he couldn’t understand anything that was going on around him, it made him feel a little uncomfortable. For me, this is a situation that I’m quite used to (most of the time in Japan!), so I was not phased, knowing we would find it eventually – which we did.

It was interesting for us to see how incredibly different Korea was to Japan, despite their close proximity. On the outside, Seoul looked similar to any large city in Japan, if a little less glitzy and a little more raw and dirty. But we soon discovered that the Koreans were quite different in personality to our Japanese hosts.

The first thing that struck us, was how friendly the Koreans were toward us. Now, the Japanese are also very helpful once you enlist their help as I have reported many times on thefunkydrummer, but in Korea, we would only have to look at a subway map with a quizzical expression for 10 seconds, before somebody would offer us their help. The shyness often seen in the Japanese did not seem to be apparent in the Koreans, who seemed much more outgoing, and jumped at the chance to be friendly.

The highlight of the trip for me was a Korean street magician we met, who went by the name of Danny. Whilst we were waiting for our Fukui friends Celeste and Sarah to change some money, we were approached by Danny, guitar slung over his back, who performed some magic for us. We ended up hanging out with him for the rest of the day, as he took us round the shopping districts, introduced us to some great food, and even took us his friend’s drum centre where I ended up banging out some beats, whilst all the time continuing to dazzle passers by with his slight of hand. We even ended up being interviewed about our opinions on fortune tellers by a TV crew.

I’d heard the Seoul was a shopping paradise, but I was a little disappointed with the goods on offer. I could not find a single t-shirt with a single bit of Korean on, which I found absolutely ridiculous. Even in Japan where Engrish is very common on t-shirts you can still find Japanese designs, but after searching some 100 stalls and shops and asking the locals, I left the country without seeing one.

It was sad to see stalls packed full of fake Nike, Puma, and other western brands, but not a single Korean t-shirt in sight. I don’t want to go all the way to Korea to buy some generic corporate brand that can be found in any city on Earth. Budding entrepreneurs take note: there is a niche for cool hangul t-shirts.

Now, everyone knows that bad experiences make for the best stories, so here’s my little portion of grief. I don’t know whether it was the super spicy food, a stomach bug, or just a little food poisoning, but my body had an internal argument with something and it let me know about it.

The famous Johnny Cash song: “And it burns, burns, burns... the ring of fire” would have been an appropriate soundtrack to the day I spent on the toilet whilst the rest of the crew were out at the border in the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) trying to get a sneaky look at communist North Korea.

Thankfully, by the time we were ready to leave, there was nothing left for my body to purge and I decided to keep it that way by not eating anything more until I was safe home again, with a toilet in range.

Aside from this little illness, it was a great trip, and with some very tasty food and very friendly people I’d have to recommend Korea as a solid destination if you’re ever heading over the Asia.

Just watch out for the red hot chilli peppers...

2006-04-12T10:57:00.000+09:00

Live life to the max. Korean cider max.

2006-04-12T10:52:00.000+09:00

Danny - the hero of the trip; a young Korean student/muscian/street magician who dazzled us with his slight of hand and guitar playing and then took us on a tour of his city. A legend and a scholar.

2006-04-12T10:38:00.000+09:00

We stumbled upon what we though might be an exciting political demonstation, but it turned out to be some work union disputing conditions. Nice cap mate.

2006-04-11T16:04:00.000+09:00

In contrast to Japan, there was a very strong military presence in Korea. This is not suprising seeing as it has been invaded by its neighbours Japan and China countless times over the last 1000 years or so, and when the capital city of Seoul is looking down the barrel of the nuclear missle from a hostile North Korea.

2006-04-11T16:03:00.000+09:00

A colourful temple roof.

2006-04-11T16:00:00.000+09:00

The oldies engrossed in a game of Chinese chess(?), in a park in Seoul.

2006-04-11T15:58:00.000+09:00

Nazi party head quarters, Seoul, Korea.

2006-04-11T15:56:00.000+09:00

Bran Van chows down on some spicy shizzle.

Gaijin, The Novelty That Never Wears Off

2006-04-06T09:01:00.000+09:00

As the time that I’ve spent in Japan reaches almost 2 years, I’ve noticed that I’m becoming increasingly sensitive to one aspect of living here; the vacant, boggle eyed, gawking stares, that often follow me when I’m out and about.

Although this has always been part of life here, for some reason, I have found myself becoming increasingly more pissed off by it in recent months. In the early days during the honeymoon period, I found it somewhat amusing that I should draw so much attention simply for being non-Japanese. After all, in those days, the new world of Japan was just as much of a novelty to me, as I was to the world of Japan. But as the months ticked on and the excitement of octopus tentacles, okonomiyaki restaurants, and capsule hotels faded, living in Japan just became normal and homely to me. But for the local Japanese population, my distinct non-Japanese-ness always seemed to be worthy of a stare, and the novelty never did, and perhaps, never will, wear off.

Now, I realise that on a global scale of racism and discrimination, this ranks pretty low down on the list of complaints. After all, to my knowledge, I’ve never been openly called names (other than gaijin, meaning foreigner), I’ve never had to put up with any sort of violent behaviour, and overall, the Japanese who’ve crossed my path have been extremely kind, helpful and generous towards me. However, this doesn’t mean I still don’t get annoyed at the obvious stares, and under-the-breath muttering of “Look! Gaijin!”, which then causes every other Japanese person in the vicinity to stare too.

It’s now got to the point where I often just can’t be bothered to go out on my own to the supermarket or a restaurant, because I know I’ll end up getting pissed off with being started at. When I do eat out, I now select the most hidden table I can find to try and stand out as little as possible. Sometimes you just want to get on with your chores or eat your meal, without having your shopping basket scrutinised, or you menu selection talked about.

I acknowledge that a large part of this unwelcome fame is due to living in the so called inaka (countryside), because there are very few other foreigners here. For example, in my town of Ono which claims a population 40,000, there are only 5 other foreigners that I know of. In that respect, it’s not really surprising that you turn a few heads, because you are a rarity. Yet, I just find it down right rude to be so openly and obviously stared wherever I go. There have been foreigners living here for at least the last 18 years so why are we still getting started at like we’re from outer space?

As opposed to every other country I visited, Japan has a very homogenous population, and I think this leads to somewhat of a “Japan VS The World” mentality. It’s Us Vs Them; you’re either Japanese, or you’re foreign – there’s no middle ground. This is always illustrated at the immigration desk at the airport upon returning to Japan after a visit abroad. Written in English and Japanese, a sign explains the two queues at the passport check; one is for “Foreigners”, the other for “Japanese or Those Holding Re-entry Permits”.

As we have a working visa and a re-entry permit, we are entitled to join the Japanese queue, yet this is always guaranteed to cause a stir. Upon returning from Seoul last week, myself and The Bran Pan Man were joking about this very situation as we walked up to the Japanese queue. Sure enough, we were instantly accosted by a large Japanese airport official, who told us we were in the wrong queue. We then explained we were entitled to be there, and realising her defeat she threw in a quick “Well make sure you’re not carrying any meat or fish!”. Don’t worry, we weren’t.

Then five minutes later, a little Japanese kid came up to us, pointed at the foreigner’s queue, and told us we should go over there. We told him that we lived in Japan, but it just didn’t compute and he eventually walked away puzzled as to why two obviously non-Japanese people could be in the Japanese queue.

It’s one of the reasons why foreigners find it hard to live in Japan for a long period of time, because even when you feel like a local, you’ll always be seen as a foreigner. Even some of my friends who speak fluent Japanese say this never really changes, and it tends to lead to a slightly bitter feeling amongst long term expats -because the novelty of your foreignness, just never wears off.

Giants in G-Strings

2006-03-24T11:08:00.000+09:00

A sumo t-shirt as seen at the tournament, Osaka, Japan.

2006-03-24T10:55:00.000+09:00

Last weekend, a posse of Fukui foreigners made the short train journey to Osaka city to behold the wonder of a sumo tournament. The small stadium meant that there really wasn’t a bad seat in the house, and though we were in the cheap stalls, we had a great view of the battling behemoths.

Sumo is said to have originated around 1500 years ago. In its early stages the sport was a rough and tumble affair that combined boxing and wrestling, and had few rules. For a long time it was regarded primarily for its military usefulness in hand to hand combat, and in the age of the samurai, the martial art of Ju-Jitsu was delveloped from sumo.

Now it is a highly ritualised affair, with strict rules of engagement and etiquette, and duties that extend even to outside the ring. For example, the top ranked sumos are only permitted to appear in public wearing traditional attire (kimono and yukata that is, not mawashi - the g-stings!). In fact, last year a sumo wrestler caused huge controversy when he showed up in public in a suit rather than a kimono, and the sumo association threatened to strip him of his status for not upholding the honour of the sport!

To Japan’s ongoing disappointment, the current sumo champion (termed the yokozuna), is not Japanese, but Mongolian. There are also a few other high ranking sumo foreigners, including two Russian brothers, and a Bulgarian, Kotooshu, who is a big crowd pleaser, and has been dubbed the “David Beckham of Sumo”, due to his dashing good looks.

The Bulgarian certainly put on a good show for us. As the bout started, he put in a nifty little side step, dodging his attacker. He then was almost forced out of the ring, only managing to evade a loss at the last split second, and then after some fierce grappling and "hundred hand slapping" (E. Honda from Street Fighter 2 style) came back with a sweet throw, depositing his opponent outside of the ring, and winning the bout.

A day of sumo is very much like a day of cricket, i.e. a lot of build up, but only short periods of sporadic action. Indeed, the average bout lasts less than 15 seconds, yet the watering and sweeping of the ring, throwing of salt, slapping of thighs and stomping the sand lasts for several minutes, and precedes each fight. The highest ranking fighters will put on quite a show before actually fighting, which serves to psyche up themselves, and get the crowd in a frenzy.

Tiny details are scrutinised here. By throwing the salt a little further into the ring, or by slapping the chest with the little extra pizazz, the crowd can been driven into yells of excitement.

In fact, originally, there was no limit to the length of this “psyching up” period, but when spectators were sitting around waiting for an hour for a fight to actually start, they decided to bring in a limit, which now stands at four minutes.

A tournament lasts for 15 days, during which each wrestler fights just once a day. The lower ranks start earliest, and the big boys of the sumo world enter the ring later on in the day. Promotion is granted if a wrestler wins more than 8 of the 15 bouts, but the top position of yokozuna is only granted to a sumo who is not only an exceptional wrestler, but also a man of great character, worthy of holding such an exalted position.

To finish off the day, one sumo is picked to perform the yumitori-shiki – or bow dance. Here, a specially made bow is twirled about the head and body, similar to a baton in a marching band, but somewhat cooler. This is said to have originated when a winning sumo was presented with a bow, and then performed the dance to express his satisfaction.

Overall, a solid afternoon of watching giants in g-strings, highly recomended, and well worth the £25 ticket price.

2006-03-24T10:52:00.000+09:00

Let's get ready to rumble; the face off.

2006-03-24T10:48:00.000+09:00

A model of the model; Kotooshu the Bulgarian or "The David Beckham of Sumo"

2006-03-24T10:43:00.000+09:00

Battle of the big boys

2006-03-24T10:41:00.000+09:00

Not a bad pair, for a bloke.

Winter is Winding Down

2006-03-15T14:23:00.000+09:00

A traditional Japanese house, with a snowy icing, as seen in Kamisho Village, Fukui, Japan.

2006-03-15T14:19:00.000+09:00

Dear Funky Drummer Fans, apologies for the lack of recent postings. I’ve been busy working on the Snow Sphere Project – which after only a month and a half since it’s official launch, is proving to be very popular with world wide web surfers.

Much has occurred in the last month, largely consisting of snowboarding, snow shoeing, and cross country skiing trips. Over the last couple of weeks, warm weather brought much rain, putting a serious dent in the snow, with thoughts turning to warmer times. However, just like last year when everyone was announcing spring had arrived, winter made a final parting gift, dumping over 40cm of fresh snow on us overnight.

Indeed, only last Saturday, I was shredding the heavy spring snow on a sunny backcountry snowboarding trip with local legend Yasu, yet yesterday, powder was back on the cards, which happened to coincide with a half day of work, meaning an afternoon on the slopes at local resort Ski Jam.

The day ended somewhat strangely. After firing though knee deep snow on empty pistes, fellow rider “Bran Pan Man” had a fall, which lead to a serious ankle sprain and the end to his snowboarding for 6 weeks. Luckily for him, the season is drawing to a close anyway.

Less fortunate was the girl we met in first aid room. She had been skied down in a stretcher and appeared to be in a pretty bad way. This was confirmed when we later bumped into her friends at the local hospital and it transpired that she had broken her back, and will be in hospital for at least 3 months. This puts a sprained ankle into perspective.

Next week sees us taking to trip to the big bad city of Osaka to watch a national sumo tournament, and the week after we leave the shores of Japan to head for closest neighbour - Korea.

I’ll be back to report on those events soon.

Over and Out.

2006-03-15T14:15:00.000+09:00

The intrepid explorers hike up the wooded slopes of Kyogadake, a mountain in Ono.

2006-03-15T14:10:00.000+09:00

Local 'Man of the Mountain", Yasu, cooks up some "ton chan" or pig intestines, apparently one of Ono's famous food products and certainly a favourite of Yasu's. I'm not so keen on it though.

2006-03-15T14:07:00.000+09:00

A snow covered hut, seen during a snow shoeing trip in Katsuyama.

2006-03-15T14:03:00.000+09:00

Sam shreds the spring snow on a sunny Rokuroshi day.

24 Hour Pod People

2006-03-10T09:41:00.000+09:00

My latest published work is a 2 page cartoon strip devoted to the capsule hotel experience. A collaboration with illustrator Neil Wade, it was publised in the print and online Feburary editions of the American magazine, Student Traveler.

Amusingly, somehow the "Japan National Tourist Organisation of America" picked it up and wrote to us to congratulate us on being "suprisingly funny and informative".

Click here to view 24 Hour Pod People.

The Travellers Hit Town

2006-03-01T12:00:00.000+09:00

Benito and Toby in seiza postion, Eiheiji Temple, Mastuoka, Fukui, Japan.

2006-03-01T11:51:00.000+09:00

A couple of weeks ago, two uni friends, Benito and Toby made their way over to Japan for 3 weeks of snow, sushi and Nintendo products.

Lake many visitors to Nippon, their adventures began in Tokyo, where they sampled the scents and scenes of the pulsating capital. Then it was a quick train ride to rural Fukui, to enjoy a taste of local life.

Ben, being a big advocate of food, was most interested in trying the many different types of Japanese fodder. During their stay, I managed to introduce them to all the classic Japanese dishes, from stereotypical sushi, to okonomiyaki, nabe, sauce katsu-don, and Japan’s famous fast food chain - Hachi Ban Ramen.

Toby on the other hand, famed for his “sparrow belly” was less impressed by the culinary selection. However, he made up for this by being VERY impressed with every single capsule machine and Japanese toy that crossed his path.

What should have been a short trip to the local conbini became a drawn out affair, as Toby investigated every toy, model and figure that he could find. As the days passed, Toby’s bags swelled, as he continued to purchase the country’s supply of Nintendo key rings, transfomer merchandise and other general tat. In fact, even though the headmistress of my school found Toby’s love for Anpanman (a cartoon character popular with kids aged 10 and below) a little strange, she presented him with a home made Anpanman soft toy.

One of the high lights of the tour was the visit to my school where the boys were subjected to an interrogation by the students. The first question asked by the girls was always “Do you have girl friend?”; Toby had to break a few hearts, but Benito who is currently single was told he “looks cool”.

After lessons they got a taste of gaijin fame, as word quickly spread through the school that two new foreigners had been sighted, and everyone wanted to get a look. Gaggles of giggling girls asked questions and the special needs kids wanted autographs.

Despite some initial resistance to the Onsen experience, they managed to shake off the Englsih prudishness, and take a dip in the hot waters of communal spas, whilst the snow fell from above.

We also made a few trips to the slopes to sample Japanese powder and night riding. Ben managed to overdose on the local delicacy when he got completely stuck in the deep snow. I had done two and a half runs by the time he’d managed to free himself from his powder prison.

The final stage of the trip saw us head to the big city of Osaka, to take in some hussle and bustle. Meeting up with a friend of mine, (www.willspin.com) we visited shopping centers galore. Perhaps Toby’s favourite location was the Mario Cart game in the arcade, where he enjoyed beating me by a narrow margin on two occasions (I was robbed!). Once the Apple Store was sighted, it was inevitable that Toby would want a bite and he proceed to purchase some incredibly expensive headphones. For comparison, I also bought a pair of headphones that day; mine cost exactly 10 times less than Toby’s.

All too soon the week came to an end, and though we’d packed a lot in, it was time to break the fellowship. Early on Monday morning, I left the travellers sleeping in the hotel, and fully suited and booted, I blended into to rush hour throng of commuters, as I headed for a conference in Yokohama, Japan’s second city.

A big thanks to the Bentio and Toby for making the trip out here, I’ll be seeing you soon.

2006-03-01T11:47:00.000+09:00

The old and the new; Toby and Benito outside the snow covered Eiheji Temple, infront of a vending machine.

2006-03-01T11:43:00.000+09:00

Love at first sight - Toby's hero Anpanman (popular with under 10s) as seen painted on a garage door.

2006-03-01T11:40:00.000+09:00

Benito and Toby meet Shiro, the school dog.

2006-03-01T11:37:00.000+09:00

Benito: No girlfriend, but looks cool.

2006-03-01T11:34:00.000+09:00

The results of the interrogation. Toby didn't want this information to get out, but I felt it was too valuble to keep to myself. (Sorry Tubs). Was I right? Comments please.

2006-03-01T11:25:00.000+09:00

Toby chows down on some Okonomiyaki - a type of omlette/pancake.

A Walk on the White Side

2006-02-10T16:04:00.000+09:00

Snow shoeing over snow covered rice paddies, Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-02-10T16:01:00.000+09:00

Living in the winter wonderland of Ono, where over a meter of snow blankets the ground for 3 months a year, I have been diversifying my outdoor activities. Enter – the snow shoes.

One of the things I miss most from jolly old England, is being able to roam the rolling hills and meadows of the green and pleasant land. Although Ono has large areas of greenery in summer, (Ono literally translates as “Big Field”) it is misleading to think that you can get out and enjoy it. The rice paddies are strictly of the ‘look but don’t touch’ variety, as they are completely out of bounds. The rice farmers would not take lightly to people trampling their crop, and the paddies are waterlogged and muddy anyway.

But heavy snowfall has a dual effect on the town. With the one hand, it blocks off roads, cuts off railways, and prevents pavement access, but with the other, it opens up the huge expanse of rice paddies, creating one massive footpath on previously inaccessible terrain.

I’ve been taking advantage of the white freeways by strapping on snow shoes, grabbing a pair of poles, and roaming the paddies far and wide. On a cold crisp day, crunching over the snow, through beautiful snowy bamboo thickets, makes for an invigorating walk on the white side.

2006-02-10T15:58:00.000+09:00

Bamboo and snow some how just doesn't seem right - but it makes unique scenery.

2006-02-10T15:55:00.000+09:00

The red Tori (gate) on the way to the Kuzuryu river.

2006-02-10T15:51:00.000+09:00

Sam walks under the bending boughs of bamboo, near the Kuzuryu river.

2006-02-10T15:48:00.000+09:00

Walking on white water - Sam strolls across the snow.

2006-02-10T15:15:00.000+09:00

Knarled branches, blue skies.

Snow Sphere Magazine Launches

2006-02-01T15:36:00.000+09:00

2006-02-01T15:25:00.000+09:00

After months of organising, emailing, nagging and general heartache – I am proud to present the launch of the first ever snow travel magazine - www.snowsphere.com

The theme of this online magazine is to blend a snow sports mag with a travel mag, and publish skiing and snowboarding stories from the less well ridden pistes of the planet. It will also feature a range of “slope culture” related articles from environmental issues, to your best ever powder day.

In the launch issue we have for your reading pleasure:

Kung Fu Kids - The terrain parks of China
Isle of Fire and Iceland- Snowboarding on Snowy Moonscapes
Road Trippin’ Chile – PART 1 of an Epic Andes Adventure
Of Lochs and Lines – Skiing the Scottish Highlands
Snowboarders V Skiers – The Dying Feud

New articles will be added every week, so keep checking back for more snow stories.

The site is in it's infancy, and over the coming weeks and months, more and more features will be added, and the design refined.

We’re always looking for new writers, so if you’ve got a good snow story for us, check out the writers guidelines on the site, and drop us an email.

Check it out

www.snowsphere.com

Fishing For Gaijin - A Sushi Story

2006-01-27T13:49:00.000+09:00

The rare gaijin fish can often be found feeding in the warm waters of the Sushi-Ya, Katsuyama, Fukui, Japan.

2006-01-27T13:35:00.000+09:00

Dear funkydrummer readers, it’s time to step out of the cold snow and into the welcoming warmth of my local sushi restaurant for a while. As my time in Japan quickly slips away, I realise there are still many aspects of life here that I am yet to document.

One such tale that must be told takes place at my favourite sushi restaurant in the neighbouring town of Katsuyama. It is here, that many of the expat (gaijin) community often gather to gorge on various types of raw fish and green tea that float by on the belt.

Many sushi restaurants use the “kaiten” system to serve their customers. A simple, yet brilliant concept, patrons sit around a circular conveyor belt that brings dishes past for you perusal. When you see something you like, you simply pluck it from the belt and devour it at your table.

Each plate has an electronic chip imbedded within, so that upon eating your fill, the waitress simply scans your stack to calculate the bill. It’s an excellent and efficient system, especially for foreigners who might have problems reading the menu, because there’s no need to order anything.

Interestingly, I’ve noticed that many of the dishes that make laps of the restaurant have a western twist thrown in. Alongside the traditional slices of maguro (tuna) and unagi (eel), more modern tastes exist. One such of these is the beef “sushi”. A slice of lightly browned beef, sprinkled with salt, sitting atop a cuboid of rice, it is a divine taste to behold.

Now, the smiley faced manager of the restaurant knows that when it comes to his beef sushi, us gaijin are powerless to refuse its melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness. He knows, that no matter how many beef sushi he makes, the gaijin will eat them all.

Like an seasoned salmon fisherman might tie a fly, he carefully prepares the bait with his expert blade. Once the gaijin have settled into their seats, he casts his irresistible lure onto the conveyor belt, so that it lands just a little upstream from our lair. He waits patiently and watches as the succulent beef trots downstream towards the shoal of gaijin, like a juicy worm to a fat trout. He knows he will catch a whopper tonight.

Upon spying his beef, the gaijin go into a feeding frenzy. Hands shoot out into the slow flowing current of food and grab the bait, greedily devouring it with haste. Natto, and ikura are ignored, but four, five, six, plates of beef sushi are gone in an instant. The master fisherman quietly smiles to himself. He’s hooked a big one, profits will be up tonight.

Occasionally however, the piranha-like gaijin can cause problems for this fisherman. You see, when another patron of the restaurant orders the beef sushi, he cannot allow it to flow past us - it would never make it through. Instead, he must go to the trouble of placing it downstream of the shoal, out of striking distance from the ravenous gaijin species.

However, this is but a small inconvenience for the master fishermen. As the gaijin fork out their wads of yen at the till, he waves a friendly good night, safe in the knowledge that the shoal will be back in his waters soon.

2006-01-27T13:33:00.000+09:00

It may not look like much - but this beef "sushi" is da shizz nizzle.

2006-01-27T13:30:00.000+09:00

Unagi (eel) and Tamago (egg) head down the line.

2006-01-27T13:26:00.000+09:00

Top dollar for this dish - maguro or tuna served on a wooden slat.

2006-01-27T13:22:00.000+09:00

Fish eggs, rice and a slice of lemon float by on the belt.

The Snow Dump

2006-01-23T11:41:00.000+09:00

Keep on truckin'; A lone lorry heads for the hills with its snowy load. Ono, Fukui, Japan.

2006-01-23T11:39:00.000+09:00

Once again the snow is coming on strong here in Ono. I recently discovered where the town disposes of its white waste. Snow removal teams work the city, milling the snow with combine harvester like machines, known to Americans as “snow blowers”.

These contraptions, which range in size from metal giants of the road, to pedestrian pushed snow mowers, cut up the compacted snow, which then spurts from the top of the machine into trucks, which then ferry it away to the snow dump, situated by the Kuzuryu river. It is here that load upon load is piled high to sit until spring, where the sun will eventually melt this artificial mountain.

Our parking area was recently cleared of snow. It took two days using mechanical diggers to free us from our white prison which had closed in around us, and it seems it was just in time – the forecast for the next few days is heavy snow.

2006-01-23T11:38:00.000+09:00

A truck unloads its cold cargo onto the snow dump. In the distance, you can make out one of the runs of Ski Jam resort (top right).

2006-01-23T11:33:00.001+09:00

An artificial mountain made purely of snow. This is where it all ends up.

2006-01-23T11:33:00.000+09:00

Diggers, trucks and tractors bully the waste snow into place in the shadow of Ono's mountains.

The Best Powder Day, Ever

2006-01-17T17:23:00.000+09:00

Late lines on deserted slopes; Branvan cuts it clean at Rokuroshi ski area, Fukui, Japan.

2006-01-17T17:15:00.000+09:00

Following a month of almost continuous snow storms that buried west Japan, the weather has given way to some welcome sunshine, and not so welcome rain.

I’ve been making the most of the powderous conditions, hitting local ski resorts whilst the going was good. Thus, I come to tell you of my best powder day, ever.

The scene is set in Shiramine, a small yet fun ski area lying just over the boarder into neighbouring prefecture, Ishikawa. Using my lingering jetlag to my advantage, I was up early and on the road by 8am. As I powered along the white roads in four wheel drive, the tall snow banks dwarfed my car.

It was a solo mission. My normal posse had been unable to make it, but not wanting to waste such great conditions, I decided to go it alone. I arrived within a hour, and pulled into the car park, surprised to see just 30 other vehicles. It seemed the snow storm had persuaded most people to stay at home.

I bought a day ticket and walked straight on to the lift. The place was ridiculously empty despite it being a Saturday, and I did not wait in line once the whole day. Japan is one of the most densely populated countries on the planet, but I rarely see evidence of it.

Goggled, gloved and hooded, barley a square inch of skin was exposed as I surveyed the terrain from the lift. The snow was so deep that my board dragged on the surface at times on the way up.

All I could hear was the soothing sound of snowflakes falling on my hood, like rain on a tent. I watched two figures emerge from the whiteness, sweeping past in the thigh deep crystals, snow streaming from their bodies like a jet’s vapour trail, before they disappeared back into the mist. It was going to be a good day.

At the top of the lift, the snow was coming down so fast that it took me a while to get my bearings. Despite visiting Shiramine several times last season, the stormy conditions were disorientating. I eventually realised my position, and headed for a run I’d remembered being pretty sweet last year.

And how sweet it was. The snow was so light and powdery, every turn was a rooster tail. I headed for the side of the run, but forgot to lean back on my board. The nose dug in and catapulted me into bottomless yuki. I lay there laughing for a while, trying to dig myself out and get back to the shallower snow of the piste. My efforts were futile. The snow was too deep. I had to detach from my plank and swim through the pow to make it back to safety.

As the day went on my confidence grew, and with it my speed. I began taking on drops, dipping into the trunks, slashing snow banks and plumping powder pillows, leaving a tracer of fine flakes spurting from my exhaust.

Sometimes I’d fall, leading to temporary imprisonment in the deep drifts. Other times I’d launch from a pillow and explode into the powder below, my board a bomb, then ride away with a racing heart and a big smile on my face.

Several short breaks in the wooded slope side restaurants saw me through the day. Recharging on hot chocolate, yaki-soba (fried noodles) and curry mahn, I was able to enjoy the awesome conditions all day long.

And so it continued – endless lines in bottomless snow - until the incident. Riding fast under the lifts, buzzing from the shouts of “sugoi!” as I dodged dangling skis, I hit a submerged tree trunk, which took me straight out, and left me lying on my back, gasping in pain. After a few minutes, I assessed the damage – fortunately no breaks, just some bruises, and the decision to call it a day.

And there it is. As I was alone, no pictures were taken, and those who know the joys of powder will understand the difficulties in translating the experience to text. Balls deep, face shots, champagne snow - there’s only so many words you can use to describe such a day and most of them have been heavily over used already.

I’ll finish by saying that I feel lucky to have had such a great day, and lucky to have escaped major injury. After all, due to that tree trunk, this could have been the “worst powder day, ever” but that’s a story I hope I’ll never write.

2006-01-17T17:13:00.000+09:00

I'm on a road to snow where; (sorry) high walls of snow line the route to Shiramine.

2006-01-17T16:58:00.000+09:00

A lone tree at the top of Ski Jam. Branvan gets ready to roll.

2006-01-17T16:56:00.000+09:00

Throwing up a spray at Kastuyama Ski Jam. Branvan destroys the pow with his weapon of mass destruction. USA! USA!

2006-01-17T16:51:00.000+09:00

To infinity and beyond? Ski Jam Katsuyama claim this to be the longest rail in Japan. At 55m, it's certainly a beast, but I'll give it a crack at some point this season.

2006-01-17T16:48:00.000+09:00

Incoming; Branvan shreds the fluff round the backside of Rokuroshi ski area.

2006-01-17T16:45:00.000+09:00

Branvan and Sam san hike out after line of powder at Rokuroshi ski area.

2006-01-17T16:42:00.000+09:00

Setting sun; the last run of the day at Rokuroshi.